A Few Weeks In

There's a popular saying throughout the Muslim world, which is Insha'Allah. Translated it means ‘God Willing’. The Qur'an states that no Muslim should talk about the future without adding a dash of Insha'Allah into the statement. Kuwait seems to run off of 'Gods will'. With 94% of Kuwaitis employed in the government sector (cradle to grave welfare state) you can imagine how slowly the government runs. When do I get my civil ID? In Insha'Allah, it will come. It is all in the plan, Allah says so.

 

As for teaching, it seems every day is a new learning experience. In the classroom I feel like a cross between Cesar Milan and a UN Peace Keeper (Egyptian, Syrian, Lebanese, Iranian, Palestinian and Kuwaiti students make up the classroom demographic). On the streets of Hawally (a district I live in), I feel like a displaced refugee circa Gulf War 91'. Garbage, sand and decay blanket the streets, with garbage kitties prowling for chicken snacks wraps. I live in the immigrant section of town and aesthetic beauty seems to be the last thing on the residents and governments minds. It makes the streets of China and Vietnam look like 1st world countries. I'm fortunate to live here though, as food is cheap, the cultures rife and people are friendly.

The collection of co-workers at my school is excellent and I've been pleased with the expat/embassy socials. Time is passing quickly and I look forward to heading to Sri Lanka for a week’s holiday in late October!

Arriving in Kuwait

Downtown Kuwait City

I flew into Kuwait the night of August 25th and was picked up by the schools driver. Orientation started the next morning, so I crashed upon arrival in the new apartment. A year spent living in China and travelling through Southeast Asia did little to prepare me for the rising sun. Prayer speakers blasted at 4:30am in the name of Allah and Islamic world immersion kicked off. By the time I left at 7 to walk to the school, it was already 30degrees. Sand and garbage lined the streets and next to the school lay a complex that was bombed out during the Gulf War. For over 20 years it had sat, bullet encrusted and collecting stray animals – as the neighbourhood went about its usual business. When I finally arrived at the school, it was like reaching an oasis in a sea of decay. Since it's a British International School, they didn't skimp on the facilities - indoor pool, basketball courts, science labs, and a 15foot concrete wall around the property – even though it resembles a jail, it should be a great work environment!

Some observations and inquiries made thus far:

- The car culture in Kuwait puts America to shame. Everyone seems to drive a full size SUV since gas is about 40cents/litre. There's also a reckless disregard for safety, with drivers speeding around like little Mario Andretti's.

- The bulk of the fresh water in Kuwait comes from desalinization plants on the coast of the Persian Gulf. On almost every block there's water taps for drinking water. A good government initiative to keep the low income workers hydrated and in line.

- Foreigners outnumber Kuwaitis 3-1. Gaining Kuwaiti citizenship is next to impossible.

- Every foreigner living in Kuwait is here for one primary purpose: the money. The saying goes “Another day another Dinar.”

- Kuwaitis are among the most privileged citizens in the world. Health care and education (post-secondary included) are free. Taxes are next to nothing, food stamps are distributed regardless of income and government checks are handed out to citizens based on oil revenues. It's not uncommon for a Kuwaiti man to have 6+ children and/or 3 different wives.

- Alcohol is illegal and pork products are banned. There's a lucrative black market for these products, but expect to pay a premium.

- Embassy parties occur frequently and serve liquor. The property belongs to the home countries and are thus outside the 'eye of Allah’ / exempt from Islamic law.

As with any country, adjusting to the culture will take some time. I hope to learn as much as I can about the Middle East and Islam during my stay.